Lots of pics today, so I'll try to keep the text to a minimum amount of superfluous recitation. Oops! Too late.
I woke up this morning unhappy with the size of my tapered tenons. They seemed pretty delicate in comparison to the beefy legs. I figured with the radical rake and splay angles of the legs, this tenon might not be enough.
The problem is, I used the biggest rounder I have to make those tenons. It ends the taper at 5/8". I remembered that when I got to chat with Tim Manney at Handworks, he had this ghetto, shop-made gizmo he said was superior as a rounder. He told me he gets grief for not selling matching rounders to his tapered reamers, and his reason he doesn't is because they are simple to make and you should make one to exactly match the reamer you have.
He blogged about it a while back, but it is easy enough I didn't need to reference his instructions to build.
|First, get a stick of wood about as wide as a plane blade you have.|
|I drilled a 3/4" hole, and reamed it with my reamer.|
|I marked a line on each side that just touched the outside of the circle. This will be a different distance on each side.|
|Saw to the line. At least, don't go over too much. If you do, don't go over near the hole.|
|After a couple swipes with a plane, I am getting close.|
|Once it opens up, clean it up with a chisel.|
|Clamp a plane blade (bevel-up) with a C-clamp. I got extra fancy with a piece of leather, because this is a brand new blade.|
|Round 'till your heart's content.|
|Success! The tenons seat farther now.|
There's an hour re-doing something I should have thought about in the first place.
Oh well, now on to complete my adzing.
It took a lot longer than the five minutes Peter Galbert said it would, but I figure that's expected when using elm rather than pine. I wound up having to use twice as many depth cuts as Peter says in his book.
|This actually looks WAY better than the last time I tried this with a vintage |
|Next up - the scorp. What a cool name for a tool. "Scorp."|
|I find the travisher a very simple tool to use. Don't think about it, just let the tool tell you what it wants to do.|
I had intended on going for a shape with a French curve in it, similar to any other Windsor side chair. However, something wasn't quite right. It dawned on me that I had never seen that shape in a Welsh stick chair before. I decided to change it to a really mild and gradual taper to the back of the chair to give it a bit of a lighter feel without going crazy.
It just took a minute on the bandsaw at Dictum.
|When I got home, I was able to use my spokeshave to smooth out the sides and front.|
I have a couple of nice Swedish drawknives. The only problem is, I haven't rehabbed them yet, and they have no handles. Just in time, I was given this drawknife. It is a new Pfeil, and is a real dainty thing. Just perfect for those tiny details.
For hogging off an inch thickness of elm, not so much.
It is, however, amazing how much you can get away with when it is all you have and it is sharp.
|Here's where I had to leave off for today.|
June 32nd is only a day away!