No?
That's because once you get hooked, it is hard to avoid dreaming about how awesome it would be if you only had an -INSERT DREAM TOOL HERE- (or another one). The galoots say it is a slippery slope. Tune up a two dollar rummage sale hand saw so it works better than you could ever imagine, and all of a sudden there are dozens of old saws in your shop.
Sounds like fun, doesn't it?
If you have read the posts in my Beginner's Tool Kit series, you know which tools I advocate a beginner aqcuire first:
- Jack plane
- Ryobi saw
- Pair of bench chisels (3/8" & 3/4" or so)
- Marking and measuring tools
- Sharpening system
I have been working (and will continue to) work on a few projects using only these tools. The idea is not for you to pare your tools down to these few, but to get the right few when starting out to be able to do some actual woodwork. It is difficult to do anything useful if all you have is a plow plane and a 500 EURO hammer
The next logical step is, where do we go from here? What tool do I need next?
The answer to that question is personal. However, I have the answer:
- It depends.
What does it depend on? It depends on what you actually need for the work you do.
To the right of this post I have created a poll to see what tools you, my loyal readers, would like to see me discuss in a future post (or two). I have listed several tools that are essential for different kinds of operations. If you only had my basic hand tools, which one do you think you need next?
If I don't have a tool you think should be on the list, please let me know in the comments. Also, if you would like to share why you answered the way you did, leave a comment.
Coping Saw/Turning saw. So far your list limits you to rectilinear forms. Coping saw is essential (and inexpensive) intro to the world of curves.
ReplyDeleteGood point. A coping saw also comes in handy when cutting dovetails.
DeleteI think a plow (plough) plane is an essential next tool.
ReplyDeleteI love my plow plane. One of my upcoming basic tool projects will have a frame and panel door. Not sure how I am going to do it without a plow plane.
DeleteYou know, I would've said a brace or egg-beater drill next, since you would eventually require something like that... but then again, I use my shoulder plane ALL the time, so that would be my next personal purchase to add to your kit.
ReplyDeleteWhen I started this series, I was thinking a shoulder plane would be essential. But now that I have practiced lap joints with a chisel, I am a lot more confident. I think the secret is to saw accurately.
DeleteBut a shoulder plane still makes it so easy!
It's not even that - 50% of the time I use my shoulder plane as a plow plane! You can use it to raise a panel, create a dado, clean up tenon cheeks (as you said with the lap joints). My point: the essential tool isn't necessarily the "shoulder plane," but a plane in which the blade meets the sides for 90 degree shaves.
DeleteI recently upgraded my 3/4" shoulder to a 1 1/4" plane. I use it mostly for shoulders, but like you I find it works fantastic whenever I need a fine cut. But, for most long grain applications, I find myself reaching for my wooden rabbet plane.
DeleteI would say a 1/4"mortising chisel and a plow with 1/4" iron.
ReplyDeleteNow this would be a good combo for my frame and panel.
DeleteIt depends on the work you do. Sorry, I just had to throw out everybody's favorite non-answer.
ReplyDeleteI would probably add a brace and bit to that list, because eventually you will need to poke a hole in something. But if you are new to woodworking, accept this fact: you will end up owning a lot of saws. Almost every project involves sawing. A ryoba is a great first saw - easy to use and versatile. But you will eventually need more, and you can choose if they are to be powered by hand or electricity. A good crosscut backsaw, about 14" or so (sash saw), would be an excellent next tool to have.
-Eric, who just ordered another saw from Bridge City Tool Works clearance sale.
Hi Eric,
DeleteWise words for sure. I think a ryoba is a great place to start because it is so versatile, and a collection of western saws (or machines for that matter) takes time and skill (to learn to use effectively and to keep sharp) to collect. But, I did notice on my last project how much quicker and more accurate my 14" crosscut backsaw worked for cutting a shoulder.
I gotta check out that clearance sale. I've been avoiding it because I know myself.
I'm personally not a fan of eastern saws, but I get why you recommended that for the starter kit.
ReplyDeleteHow one adds to the tool kit is I think going to be determined by the next project one does. I know I've bought tools that I thought should be in my basic kit based on other folks recommendation, but ended up not using them for a long time until I got to a project that required them. A bit and brace for example. Braces are common and cheap, but a set of bits will set you back close to $100 (maybe more).
Here is an idea:
The basic kit as you've defined it should be sufficient to make a series of projects to both learn to use those tools adequately and to round out the kit with more essential tools. The projects I'm thinking of are a square, mallet, marking gauge, dovetail gauge, panel gauge and maybe a couple of fixed-width mortise gauges to match the chisels in your kit. Now our newbie has a good basis to start making more involved projects.
Next we attack slightly more complex projects: A small dovetailed candle box, a simple dado'd shelf/bookcase and a shaker bench. Projects that would look nice around the house and build skills further. You could probably make these with the tools already in the kit.
The next series of projects will probably force you to add tools to your kit. Let's assume the next project is a small cabinet with a frame and panel door. You'll need a plow plane, a narrower chisel for the mortises (and corresponding mortise gauge) and maybe that's enough.
What's the next project after that? If it's a bigger piece and you're using rough stock you probably want a couple of additional planes for dimensioning stock (I use my Stanley #8 all the time). If you're making projects with dados or hinge mortises then a router plane is darn useful. If you're going to make windsor chairs that's a different kit.
Hi Joe,
DeleteWe are completely on the same page. I've already made a couple try squares and a mallet with these tools. I think they are a fantastic way to learn to use them. In fact, I feel that my skills with a chisel are really taking off from using them to demonstrate this kit.
I have a few more projects in mind using only these tools. It might be fun to show certain operations using my basic toolkit, and how you could also use an additional tool to make things easier or more accurate (for example lap joints with and without a router plane).
Thanks for the examples of pieces that could be constructed with this kit. Perhaps you should try one and post about it on your blog?
I feel that many prospective beginners are sometimes put off by the amount of money that you can blow just getting set up with what one author or another considers their essential tools. It would be easy to spend $5K on a starter set, if one was determined. I think it is easier than that, and if I had done it this way, I may have saved myself some money and built some basic skills a lot faster.
A copy of the Anarchist's Tool Chest. It may not be an actual tool but at least you will know what to look for when you buy that next tool and why you need it.
ReplyDeleteI would suggest a small tenon/dovetail saw. Its not to big to cut a lot of dovetails. Its big enough to cut small tenons. Even though its a rip cut If it is hand sharpened It probably has enough fleam to cut smooth enough if you are making a first class cut. By the time you have practiced enough sawing to the line you will have bought a mortice chisel and plow plane. Its now time to build a side table with a drawer.
Good point, Paul. The ATC really got me thinking about what tools I had and what I needed. I kind of look at my list as a "where to start" from that list. In fact, the reason there is a jack plane on this list is because I was amazed that CS had a smoothing plane and a jointing plane on his list of "nice to have" tools, not on his essential list. Got me thinking that perhaps this tool is more versatile than I thought.
DeleteSure enough, he was right.
Just finished reading through the series, and for "what's next" I would recommend three critical tools. A block plane, a rasp, and something to whack stuff with. (My personal Go To Whacker is a 2lb Nupla dead blow hammer with one steel face and one soft face. Handy in the shop, handy around the house, handy when the motorcycle needs a whack, handy when I was assembling knock-down furniture, home gyms and swingsets for a living). Sure, you can make your own whacker (as you subsequently did), but, at least for me, the experience of doing so doesn't offset the incredible multi-task utility of my Persuader. (Yes, it's the only tool I've got that has earned a name.)
ReplyDeleteNonetheless, I have greatly enjoyed you posts on the topic.
grace and peace, BikerDad
Thans BikerDad, I love my block plane. It is a really handy convenience. Lately I have been trying to work without one to see if it can be done. It can, but using a jack plane instead is not quite as pleasant.
DeleteThanks for reading!