Sunday, July 8, 2018

Japanese Tool Box

I finished something!
I have had a very inspiring few weeks since my last post. I traveled to Germany and crashed Christopher Schwarz' French workbench class at Dictum, met several woodworkers, carved my first spoon, and started a staked side table project while there.

I'll not write about any of that today. Instead, you get to see the Japanese tool box that I built a couple of days ago.

One of my Instagram friends that I was finally able to meet while in Germany suggested that I build a Japanese tool box. It sounded like a great idea since my Dutch tool chest was starting to get cluttered with too many tools.

The DTC is fantastic, but it works best when everything is neat and orderly. Something I typically am not good at. The Japanese box will hold some of the tools that I don't frequently use.

Because most of my tools will stay in my DTC, this box doesn't need to be particularly big. My longest tools, my Ryoba saw and my jointer plane will not live here. I might put my oversize, giant Dick saw in this box, but it does break down, so that shouldn't be a problem.
Available suitable lumber for my new box.
I have some plastic wrapped, laminated wood lying around that I had intended for another project lying around. This will work perfectly. They are 1200 mm long. The wide one is 300 mm wide, and the narrow one 200 mm. These will be perfect for a box that will be around 600 mm long.

The very first thing I did was some internet research. I happily discovered that Greg Merritt built one of these a year or two ago, and posted his usual impeccable drawings on his website. I relied heavily on his drawings, but I used nails and skipped the housing dadoes. Nails, no glue and no fine joinery sounds like a fun way to build a cool box.

I probably should have read his blog a bit more carefully, and I would have prevented a few problems. Instead of joining the carcass together, then nailing the bottom on, I started by nailing the sides to the bottom (after sawing to length and smooth planing).
I wouldn't recommend starting this way.
I thought it would be simpler considering that I have no bench and my workholding is limited. It made things a bit more complicated as I had to be extremely precise in sawing the end pieces to length. In fact, I had to scrap the first pair of end boards and make a new pair. Thankfully, I had enough wood.
I toenailed most of the nails to add mechanical strength.
To make it look nice, I stepped off the spacing for the nails with dividers and drilled pilot holes for the Roman nails with a tapered drill bit. I used regular 8d cut nails on the bottom, so the heads could sit flush or a little below the surface allowing the box to sit on the floor without messing up the floor.
Cut nails are incredibly strong compared to wire nails.
Assembling the box was relatively straightforward. All of the visible nails were stepped out with dividers and have a big, decorative head.
The box is nailed together, awaiting all the sharp edges to be chamferred.
One note about the handles: if you build a box like this, take Greg's advice and use nice thick stock for them. I used some spruce or fir or something for mine, and they are 1 5/8" thick. This leaves an extremely comfortable handle that really lets you grip the box. Even though it is small for a box of this type, loaded up it could be very heavy, and balancing a heavy box on the tips of your fingers is not fun.

The endcaps are nailed on with an eye toward overkill. The nails go in the box's sides, ends, and handles to keep the endcap firmly in place securing the lid. I imagine this part of the box doesn't take so much stress, but nails aren't that expensive.
Lots of nails - because I can.
The last thing I did was construct the lid. The lid drops in, then slides under the endcap to lock it. I followed Greg's instructions and it works perfectly. For joining the battens to the lid, I clinched the nails. I love clinched nails, they are very strong.
Clinched nails on the lid.
I didn't really mention it, but before nailing any part on, it was smoothed with my #4 and burnished with my pollissoir. If it was an edge that would stay, I chamferred it with a plane, then burnished. After everything was assembled, I spent some time chamfering the edges that needed it, and burnished the remaining spots.

I had originally planned to paint this chest gray. However, I have changed my mind, in no small part to the good people who left comments on my Instagram post. The traditional finish for one of these chests is to leave it as is after burnishing.

Paint would not work because of the sliding lid. The paint would either come off on the parts that rub, or cause the lid to bind and not open at all.

This is a tool box, after all, and will get it's share of abuse over time. Hopefully it will prevent the tools inside from taking that abuse. Over time it will darken up and get more beautiful.
The top of this cabinet I built last year is the same material as the new box. Wood darkens over time.
I call this box finished. I might decide to deepen the chamfers on the corners and the bottom to help protect against bumps and dings, then again I might not. I also might make a sliding till, or some boxes that live on a rail inside, but the box is small enough that I think they could get in the way. How the tools in this box fare over time will determine what I do inside of it.

If you build a box like this, I highly recommend Roman and/or cut nails, and Greg's fantastic drawings. I also recommend this project for woodworkers of any skill level: it's a great first project.

Monday, May 28, 2018

Re-Handling Swedish Steel - VIDEO

I have a weakness when it comes to Swedish steel. I literally have a bucket in my Munich shop that says, "Swedish Chisels."

The last time I was there, I grabbed a couple that needed re-handling and brought them to where I am now living in Spain.
I'm pleased.
They turned out pretty good. They aren't in any way original to how they would have been handled in Sweden, but it is a way I have learned to do it , and they are very comfortable to hold and use.

A big problem occurred when I started this post three days ago. I had so many pictures in the post that it detracted from the quality of the post (more than usual). Therefore, I decided to put them in a video. I haven't done a video in a while.


The freaking video took longer to put together than the actual woodworking did. I apologize in advance, if I have a post like this in the future, I'll just post a zillion pictures instead.

The video turned out OK, so I hope you enjoy it:
I had some special brown oak that was sent to me by a fellow InstaGrammer. I am working on another project with that stuff, and I wanted to see what it would look like finished. It is really cool.
Brown oak. I laid out the handle in line with the grain, rather than the face of the board. It split nicely.
Now that I'm looking at my favorite Finnish chisel, I think that it might need a new handle, too.
Next victim.

Tuesday, May 8, 2018

Cribbage Board

It's been three years since my last cribbage board. Time flies.
I finished something!
In an effort to keep from overloading this post with photos (again), I have combined a bunch of photos of this build into a little animation for your viewing pleasure.
I hope you don't get a seizure.
Cribbage is a really fun card game. I like it best for two people, but three-handed cribbage is also a hoot. Sadly, my wife hates cards, and I don't know anyone else nearby who plays. It sucks to be them, because I'll be on a crusade to teach people this fun game, and those people are all going to soon hate me.

I have kind of a weird philosophy when it comes to cribbage boards. I don't think one should find the perfect piece of wood for a cribbage board, I think you should make the cribbage board fit the piece of wood you have.

I happened to have an offcut of a piece of American birch laying around. It was small enough that it would make a handy size for a travel board for two-handed cribbage. However, it was a bit too long. I thought it would be a shame to cut it down, so I decided to make it double-length: a traditional layout requires that you move the pegs up one side and down the other twice. This board will allow you to go up and back for the required winning score of 121 points.

I learned a while back it is much easier to lay out a cribbage board with dividers than it is to do with a paper template. I feel the template constricts the design, whereas laying out your own pattern allows you to use the wood as you have it. This way I feel like I am not searching for the perfect piece of wood, I can use whatever wood I have.

In the past, the holes haven't all lined up exactly perfectly. I decided this time to start by using the brad point drill bit in my fingers as an awl to start the hole exactly where it needs to be. This improved the quality of how the holes lined up immensely.

I first did this to improve accuracy.
Also, I've really come to like using an eggbeater drill for this job. A drill press doesn't make these holes any faster, and I can do it at my desk during breaks at work. Just frequently keep dusting the sawdust away.
The perfect tool for the job.
One problem I came upon after I drilled out 244 holes on this board, was that they were too close together. When my pegs (purchased from Lee Valley) were in adjacent holes (something that happens frequently in cribbage), they bump against each other in a way that prevents them from seating fully.

To remedy this, I put away the metal pegs I had, and got out the wooden ones that are shaped just the same. I spray painted the heads red or blue, and then made a jig to plane them into a hexagonal shape. This actually lets them get closer together. It's not perfect, but the pegs seat well enough to prevent disaster from happening while playing the game.
My peg-shaving jig made from an old drawer front found in a dumpster.
I kind of eyeballed the angles for the hexagon. I'm pleased with how they look.

An interesting look.
I thought it might be fun to add some more Hillbilly Inlay. This time with spray paint. I ran a marking gauge up the center line of each track, and then widened the mark with a shop knife. I taped it off and sprayed it with two coats of each color.
Right after removing the masking tape.
A few strokes with a plane and there was some nice colored kohlrosing to match the color of the pegs for each player.
Almost done, don't screw it up!
Lastly, I wanted to add a decorative profile to the edges. I've done this profile before with great success, and this example isn't such a great success. I wish I would have just chamfered it. I'll decide in a few days if I want to mess with it any more.
Finished piece.
Overall, I'm generally very pleased with this cribbage board. If I make another one, I'll probably space the holes a little farther apart, and avoid the decorative profile unless I have the proper tools. On the plus side, I'm tickled with the accuracy of the holes, and the effect of the colored stripes.

Stay tuned, as I predict I'll make more of these, as they are a lot of fun to make.

Friday, May 4, 2018

Royal Game of Ur - Part VIII - Game Board Complete

Yes, that's right. Part eight. I last blogged about this project in September, and that post starts with excuses to why it is taking so long.

My woodworking has been in a funk lately, and the idea of this board in the first place was  something quick and easy that I could do to get me back in the swing of woodworking.

Maybe it'll work this time.

Anyway, I finished the game board.
Finally completed.
Just in case you are wondering, I based this one off of the game board in the possession of the British Museum - an ancient Sumerian artifact somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000 years old.
The original, made a long time ago. I took many liberties, but I think it will do.
Bear with me while I explain what I did:

The part that I was most dreading was carving the rosettes. I intended to chip carve them, but was unsure of my skill, since I have never chip carved anything before. So I thought about it for about it for around eight months.

I found my test piece the other day, and it didn't look as horrible as I thought it did when I made it. I decided if I did that, it would be better than not finishing it at all.

I also figured out that I didn't need to chip carve, at all. That was too hard to learn on this hard wood. So, instead, I took an old gouge I happened to have, sharpened it up, and used it to make the leafy shapes, and cleaned up with my new chip carving knife. Finally, I used my chisel to mark the outer outlines.
Rosette. It could have been worse.
After I did those, the rest was pretty easy. A combination of laying things out with dividers, carving small circles with my eggbeater drill, and drilling holes for Hillbilly inlay.
Not sure why I used blue tape, but it did make some nice layout lines.
The great part of this project, was I could do it at my desk (which is in my shop), and work on it between my lessons teaching Chinese kids English.
Between classes.
I really like how the eyeball thingies turned out. Drill some holes for the eyeball inlay, chop some eye patterns with a gouge (eyeballed, of course), and more eyeballing of the little crosses with my chip carving knife.
The only thing not eyeballed was the location of the eyeballs. I used dividers for those.
Some hide glue and 3mm bamboo skewers made the inlay. This would have taken forever if I had decided to make my own dowels with a dowel plate. Greg, you are my hero for this idea.
I have no idea what the purpose of most of these tiles will be in the game, but they sure do look cool!
After all that was done, before I cleaned anything up, I cut out a little stencil in some scrap cardboard and spray painted the rosettes.
Red and blue rosettes.
My next step was a bit of a risk. I had an idea, and hadn't heard of anyone else's experience with it. I wanted the lines I carved to pop out, so I thought Greg's method of Kohlrosing would be a good idea. The only thing I happened to have around that I could think of was black shoe polish.

I went with it.
I learned spit-shining in the Army.
Here's what I did: I brushed it on, trying at first to only blacken the raised panels on my board. There was plenty of parts where I went over, so I just went with it.  I was careful to get black in every little nook and cranny so it would show up later.
Don't worry, I'm not done yet.
Once that was all done, I let it sit for ten minutes or so, then I used the boot brush. No idea why, I guess old Army habits die hard.

Now it is time to clean it up. I sharpened my smoothing plane and set it for extremely light cuts. I didn't want to plane my newly blackened lines away, only to have to re-carve, re-blacken, and re-plane-them-away again.
Cleaning up the shoe polish.
Many of the inlays were still a bit proud after having cut them with a flush cut saw. Once they were all leveled, I start taking shavings off of the panels, one by one the best I can.

This didn't turn out perfect, but I like the effect.

After this was done, I treated it to a coat of my super-secret-home-refined linseed oil.
I like this effect.
The black shoe polish does indeed accentuate the lines I carved. Plus, it gives an air of age to the game board. I like it.

Not quite complete, but I do have some functional dice.


 If I build another one of these, there are some things I really like, and some things I'd do differently.
  • It might be a good idea to do the carving before planing and sawing away the grooves. There was some blowout in a few spaces because there was nothing to support the fragile edges when chopping a decorative line near the edge. Or not. Perhaps a backing piece would be a better idea.
  • The shoe polish was a great idea. But, it gets in the grooves no matter what. Go with it, or mask it. But with a wood like this, the black will stay in the pores of the wood.
  • Try to complete the next one in less than nine months.
  • Cutting the rosettes with a gouge was a masterstroke: I never could have achieved such uniformity with a carving knife. Maybe others could.

Next I'll have to come up with a plan for the game pieces. Stay tuned!

If (like me) you've forgotten all about this project and want to read all the posts about how I got to this point, they are all here.

Thursday, April 26, 2018

Plane Rehab - Record #071 Router

I like it.
I have a project coming up that has sliding dovetailed crossbattens in hard wood. I am a big fan of doing things like this with minimal tools (i.e. only a chisel), but I thought I would treat myself to a new old tool:

A router.

I about had a heart attack when I started looking for routers on eBay. The last time I looked, they were a dollar a dozen. Not anymore.

I had considered buying a new Veritas or Lie-Nielsen, but I already have one of those in Munich. (Just wait, I bet I'll have been back to Munich and had the opportunity to fetch it before I get to the project with the sliding dovetails.) Also, few retailers in Europe happen to have them at the moment. I bet I could sell my Lie-Nielsen here for a healthy profit, if I could get to it.

I was able to find a router on British eBay, and the seller was willing to ship it to Spain for a reasonable price. This one was more than I really wanted to pay, but because it was Record and not Stanley, I saved fifty bucks.

After a short wait, this arrived in the mail:
I was happy with it. It looks better than I expected.
The plane was in remarkable shape. I would say 95% japaning is intact. 105% if you count the yellow paint. Some of the parts turned rough, and there was a small amount of surface rust that I wanted to get rid of.
Broken down. Time to clean it up.
I decided to turn my attention to the knobs, first. My thought was this was the hardest part of the rehab. It turned out to only take an hour or so. I went through the grits with sandpaper, 120-240, then burgundy and gray 3M pads.
Wow! Not bad.
I was worried as most of the "experts" on YouTube do this on their lathe, or with some other power tool. I was just careful, and sanded the least amount possible. I couldn't tell before, but now I see the wood is actually stained beech. There was only a few little spots where I sanded through the stain. I had considered staining them again, but decided since I have no stain, I'll just go with what's there.

I finished them with a dunk in my home-made BLO, and topped it off with my home-made beeswax and orange oil wax. What a nice finish. Nothing stinks.
Before and after brass knob bolts.
I considered polishing up the brass screws, but decided in the end to only clean them up with a bit of liquid scouring goo and a toothbrush. This eliminated all the dirt, but left the patina.
In situ.
This didn't take much time, so I next turned my attention to the metal bits. Since there was no heavy rust, I cleaned everything with the same scouring goo and a toothbrush. What needed it got a soft wire brush. I've always liked this way of rehabbing planes, as 1) it's easy, 2) it is not invasive - it leaves the plane in the condition it was found in, only clean, and 3) it's easy.
The hardest thing I did with this plane was sharpening the blade. That only took 20 minutes, and it's not perfect. However, it should service. The more I sharpen the blade, the better condition it will get over time.
071, or o71? That is the question.
This is a solid plane, and I expect it will work just fine. I like the depth stop on my Lie-Nielsen better, but I like that there is a front "foot" on this one. The LN probably adjusts in finer, more accurate increments, but I expect with a little fiddling, this one should work just as well.
I think it turned out nice.
I look forward to getting to know this tool, and when I am eventually re-united with my Munich shop, I might sell one or the other.
I kept the yellow paint. It's part of this tool's history.
Or, I might not.

Monday, March 26, 2018

Me 'n' Her #6

Me:  That look doesn't work on me anymore.

Her:  Yes it does. It works on everybody.

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Danish Chair Building Extravaganza

Just before heading out.
Jonas and I started getting together at his place every couple of years to build chairs. What fun. Later this year, we will have our third bi-annual event.

The events we had in the past were so much fun, it really cannot be described.

I added a page to my blog called DCBE Archive. You can see it along the top, and click on the tab. Or, you can get there by clicking HERE.

This is a page that will stay up permanently on this blog. It has links to all of the DCBE related posts on the internet that I could find. Namely, the ones from this blog, Jonas' blog, and Pedder's blog.

I'll try to keep this page updated as time goes by, so enjoy reminiscing about the past events, and look forward to the future ones.

Sunday, January 21, 2018

Winding Sticks Epilogue - Fixing a Screw Up: Part II - Fixed

Yesterday I realized that I really can't be happy with a giant gap in one of the inserts for my pair of winding sticks. I decided to fix it. I'm happy with the results:
I left the new insert clamped up overnight. Today I removed the clamps to inspect my handywork.
This looks more promising.
I left the two winding sticks in direct sunlight this morning for 1/2 hour or so to see if it would darken up a bit.

After I got back from doing my things this morning, I shaved the insert flush with the winding stick.
I'm pleased with this.
It's not perfect, but it is much better.

On went some of my special home-made BLO, and I am in business. This linseed oil is phenomenal. The best I've yet used. I'll definitely have to make some more.
Very nice BLO.
After all was done, I noticed the mystery wood that was in the sun was already remarkably darker than the new one.
Above with a suntan, below without.
Over time I expect the orange wood will turn a nice, rich color of deep brown. It should work great.
Here it is.
In case you wondered what to do with these sticks, they are for measuring twist in a board you are planing.
In use.
Notice that I just set them on the stick I am planing (using the center dots to help balance them there faster). Then it is just a matter of lining your eye up to see if the outer parts line up like in this video:
They exaggerate the twist in the board to let you know where you should focus planing in order to make the board truly flat. This stick I am testing is a real-world example, and the exact reason I felt I needed these winding sticks. Now I know where to plane to get it flat.

If you would like to read the post about the construction of these winding sticks, click here. Next up: more work on the brown oak Shaker side table.