Belated Tool Review: Liogier Cabinet Maker's Rasp

#stayathome

Heeding this hashtag is the best thing we can do at the moment to help curb the spread of the current pandemic. Unfortunately, staying at home is also crushing many small businesses. In my opinion,  patronizing businesses that are still open is crucial to helping everyone get through this situation unscathed.

I think that boutique tool makers are at a high risk of shutting down. To do my part, I decided to order a new, fine grain modeler's rasp that I have been thinking about getting for several years.

I decided to get one directly from Liogier, because about five years ago I got one of their cabinet maker's rasps, and I love it. I had planned on doing a review on my new modeller's rasp once it arrives, but I realized that I have never written about this cabinet maker's rasp. Here is my long-overdue review.

The rasp came in a hard plastic case, which happens to be the perfect storage solution for me.

I used to think that a rasp was a course, slow woodshaping tool that was probably only slightly more effective than a rusty butter knife. This was before I had ever tried a quality, hand-stitched rasp. I was able to try one at some point, and was hooked.

While looking for a rasp, Auriou was a French rasp maker that kept coming up. The Auriou rasps I've tried have all been very, very good, but at the time (2015) Liogier rasps were a little more in my budget. Liogier is also a French rasp maker that hand-stitches rasps. I figured I would give this one a try, and if I didn't like it, I could always get an Auriou.

I chose the base model 8" rasp in grain 11.

I wasn't really sure what to order, so I ordered the biggest one that I thought I could afford, an eight inch rasp in grain 11. They have two different models, Traditional, which is what I ordered, and Sapphire, which sounds like it is heat treated to make the rasp stay sharp longer and resist rust.

I went with the Traditional, because I figured there was little point in sinking extra money into a tool if I didn't like it.

I was impressed with the rasp when it arrived. It looked awesome, felt sharp and had a comfortable wooden handle. I instantly realized that I didn't get some bargain knock-off attempting to look like a quality, well known tool. This was the real deal.

Purdy, ain't it?

I was shocked when I put it to wood. Grain 11 is on the fine side of medium, but this rasp removes wood very aggressively, and leaves a surface that needs very little cleanup.

Here's a closeup of the teeth. The unevenness is what makes a hand-stitched rasp superior to a machine made one.

I use this rasp whenever I have a curve that needs cleaning up after roughing the shape with a bow saw. It also works great for chamfers, and rounding over parts.

I tend to be rather tough on my tools, in fact most of you would probably be horrified if you were to peer into my tool chest. However, you will always find this rasp carefully stored in the plastic tube it came in. More than any other tool I own, I feel the need to keep this one nice, as it is by far my best rasp.

In fact, when I came to Spain to be with my wife on her temporary contract, I left this tool in my toolbox in Germany so nothing would happen to it. I love when I get an opportunity to use it, because every time it surprises me with how easy it is to use.

Therefore, I had no problem ordering another rasp from Liogier two days ago. I know it will be good. I recommend you get one, too.

For full disclosure, I am not affiliated with Liogier in any way. However, I have been in contact with Noël Liogier. This was because I was having difficulty using my credit card on his site. It works now, but in the email conversation I asked how business was going during the lockdown in France. He said it was tough, because none of his retailers are making orders with him. He asked if I was on a forum or if I had a blog, if I would give him a shout-out, and I said I would be happy to.

If you have been thinking that you need a rasp, or any other woodworking tool for that matter, it might be important to place your order sooner rather than later. Your order may help a boutique tool maker stay in business and weather this storm.

Christmas Goodies

I don't know about you, but I had a great Christmas. My in-laws gave as a gift some money in order for me to buy something for myself. I went to Dictum yesterday before flying home to Spain and bought a giant Dick saw, and a marking gauge.  Thanks Josef and Luise!

My new giant Dick saw.

As you can see in the photo below, this one is a lot bigger than my regular Dick saw. The old one's blade is 240 mm long, and the new one is 300 mm. Plus, the teeth are a lot bigger and the blade a lot heavier. This saw is intended more for rough work, I think. I bought it because I have some resawing that needs doing, and this saw fit easily in my suitcase.

Regular Dick saw vs. Giant Dick saw.

I haven't had a chance to use it yet, so keep an eye out for an upcoming post on whether or not this saw does what I intend. So far I have one major gripe: the blade now has the Dick logo rather than the word. What's this world coming to?

The old saw had this engraved on the blade.

Now it is only the Dick logo.

As I said, I also got a new marking gauge. It wasn't expensive, and I have some gauges similar to this new one from Veritas.

New gauge from Veritas.

This will be my first gauge with a micro-adjuster on it. So far, I haven't seen the need for such a thing. Those of you who have used them before, what are your thoughts regarding a micro-adjuster on a marking gauge? My guess is it will be a bit fiddly and much slower. But, since I haven't used it yet, a proper workout and write up will be forthcoming.

The mechanism seems robust at first glance. Time will tell.

I have another gauge shaped nearly the same, and i really like it. The head is much bigger than the original gauge, and it is off center, keeping it from rolling too far when I set it down.

The beam is mounted off-center.

I have no idea how long this gauge has been on the market, this was the first time I've seen it anywhere.

What tools did you get for Christmas? Send me a photo and I'll post it here.

Bevel Up Jack Plane - Will It Work as Your Only Plane?

A few weeks ago, one of my very favorite woodworking heroes, Richard Maguire, wrote a blog post about low angle planes. I've been thinking hard about this post for a while, because I have in the past advocated big time for my Veritas bevel up jack plane (BU jack).

I have to say that Richard's conclusions about the BU jack are spot on, 100%.

Does this mean I am recanting my endorsement of this tool? Absolutely not.

Richard's premise in his blog post is that BU planes work better than other planes at the extremes of the spectrum - basically that they do one thing really great. That is planing end grain.

This plane is really great at end grain.

I whole heartedly agree. They are much better at end grain due to the low angle possible with the BU design.

What about the rest?

Can one joint with this plane?

Well, I agree with Richard. Other planes do a better job at basic tasks than this plane. A 24 inch jointer does joint better than this jack plane. A dedicated jack with a cambered blade does better at hogging out lots of material than this plane. A #4 smoothing plane with a finely set chip breaker will do a better job at smoothing than this plane.

This thing works great shooting end grain. Did I already say that?

Then why do I endorse this plane so enthusiastically?

Well, I have to say that while those other planes do better at those tasks than this plane, the BU jack will indeed do them all.

I almost always do all my jointing with this plane.

A while back, I spent more than a whole year using only this plane and no other bench plane, for no other reason than to put my money where my mouth was regarding being able to build with an extremely limited tool set.

I had noticed that many great woodworkers had recommended "beginner's tool sets" that required many thousands of dollars to fill out before a beginning student could feel like they could do "proper" woodworking.

I thought that was baloney then, and I think it is baloney now. A jack plane (whether BU or bevel down, new or vintage), is a great first tool to get because of the versatility.

Other tools work better for those everyday tasks, but one plane instead of four can be a deal maker for a beginner.

After my exclusive use of this plane for the time I used it, I found out that "plane monogamy" (as Christopher Schwarz puts it), is a wonder.

Face it, there are all kinds of situations where even the largest hand tool shops require making a plane do a bit more than what's in it's name.

To be able to do these amazing tricks with a plane, one really, REALLY needs to know their tool.

I learned that it really is true that you can't buy skill by purchasing a new tool. One should learn how far they can push (get it?) a tool they have before deciding if another is needed in their situation.

Plus, using the same tool is faster: you already have it out.

There are a few things I do to make it easier on myself.

For rough work, I do my best to avoid having to thickness stock very much. My wooden jack plane with an eight inch camber on the blade hogs off wood like crazy and in no time flat. A BU plane is difficult to put a camber on the blade because of the angle of the bed. Taking 1/16" thick or thicker shavings isn't going to happen.

It will take medium sized shavings. If your wood is roughly the thickness you need it, and mostly flat to start with, it is a breeze to bring it to good working dimensions with this plane.

For fine smoothing, again, choose your wood wisely. This plane will easily achieve a finish quality surface without much work. Even without going crazy with steep sharpening angles. Make sure the blade is as sharp as you can get it, and you will be fine. At least until you try to plane against the grain. Even then, lighten the cut a little more and close the adjustable mouth as tight as you can.

For jointing, I find this plane to be long enough to joint nearly anything I can throw at it accurate enough for gluing up a panel. It does take some skill. One will get good at making edges flat eventually with this tool. Just keep checking with a good straight edge, and practice removing the parts that aren't flat. Follow that up with a fine shaving from one end to the other. I find it rare that I need to pull a jointer out for edge jointing anymore.

In conclusion, I would just like to agree with Richard again that this plane shouldn't replace everything in your plane corral. However, if you are looking for your first bench plane, this might be a good place to start.

The Great No. 2 Knock Off Showdown - Part II - Castings and Frogs

Yesterday was Part I of this review of non-Stanley #2 shaped planes. I introduced the planes I have, and compared the totes. If you don't want to read that long post, essentially I have two Fulton 3708s, one made by Sargent and the other Millers Falls, I have a Sargent VBM 407, and a Sargent 409 as a control and something known that I can compare the little ones to.

L to R - Fulton 3708 BB, 3708 BL, Sargent VBM 407, and Sargent 409

Today what I would like to examine is the main plane castings and frog mechanisms

I would like to first examine the above photo, a head on look at all four planes together. Please ignore the sawdust on #4 size 409 on the right - I use this plane. I rehabbed it a while back with the intention of practicing fixing an old plane up before I did it to a more valuable Stanley type 11. This plane works so well, I have yet to get to that type 11, it sits sadly in a corner of my shop while this Sargent gets the snot used out of it. I probably should have cleaned it up a bit for this photo shoot, but I didn't have much time on my lunch hour that day.  :o)

Anyway, what you can see with the castings in this photo pretty much sums up my entire impressions of these planes. Starting from the right, the 409 has a nice, heavy casting which is even, but a bit on the rough side. I can attest that in use this plane isn't lacking anything other than aesthetics.

The 409. The casting has a grey tinge partly because I de-rusted it in citric acid.

Second from the right is the Sargent VBM 407. The casting on this one looks to my eye substantial, yet a bit more refined. Holding this plane you can feel it is smoother on the edges and obvious a little more care was taken on the fit and finish of this plane during construction. I think I could get the edges of the 409 to look like this relatively easy with successively finer grits of sandpaper, but that is purely cosmetic. Still, it is nice to hold and I'm glad that someone at some point in it's manufacture took the time to do it. There is some evidence that this plane was cleaned  up before I got it, but happily the dark patina of time is still all over the casting. I don't think it was sanded down after leaving the factory.

The VBM 407. At some point, someone "polished" up the lever cap grinding down the letters a bit. I imagine new the printing here was a bit crisper looking.

Next up is the third-from-the-right Sargent made Fulton 3708 BL. Actually, I have no idea if this plane really is a model 3708, as that number is nowhere on the casting. No numbers at all. There is a "BL" on the blade, but that is it. BL is Sears' code for being manufactured by Sargent. Since it is so close in appearance to the 3708 BB, we'll go with that as a designator.

You can see in the first picture, that compared to the others this plane has the thinnest casting. It is also a bit uneven - some parts of the casting are visibly thicker than others. My impression is that this is cosmetic, and only shows that this plane went through the assembly line a little faster than the rest of the planes in this test. We will see, but so far I haven't found anything on this casting that will prevent the plane from functioning well. It's just a bit ugly.

3708 BL - in this photo the uneven tapering of the thickness of the casting can be seen.

Last but not least, the Millers Falls manufactured Fulton 3708 BB. The differences are subtle, but to my eye this casting is the best looking of the lot. Not too thick and clunky looking, yet also substantial enough to not be considered too thin. The thickness looks even all around, and the sharp edges are all polished and pleasingly rounded from the factory. The standard at the MF plant was obviously a little higher than they were a the Sargent plant when the other one was made.

Proportions on the 3708 BB look perfect to my eye.

Let's take a peek now at the frogs, and how they are mated to the castings:

The dust isn't original to this plane.

Here's where the frog beds to the casting on the 409. Sargent used these three bits of metal in the casting that they ground flat(ish) for the frog to rest on. One could file these flat, but to get them all in line and perfect would take a bit of care, I decided to see how the plane worked without doing that, and I notice no deficiencies in perfromance.

A close up of the bed.

The frog itself has three ground places where it meets the raised bits in the bed. Sargent stamped the model number of the plane on the underside of the frog.

Underside of frog.

The adjuster uses a regular threaded bolt. This means that to advance the blade, you have to turn the adjuster knob to the left, which is backwards of what most of us are used to. This plane is old enough to where the knob itself is what we would consider small.

Also, in this photo the yoke is one solid piece.

The great part of this frog is the surface of the frog is ground flat, and has a lot of bearing surface for the blade. I really like frogs like this.

A nice, old-style frog.

Let's now look at the VBM 407:

Is this a different picture?

Looking at the close-ups of this plane, you would be forgiven for thinking you might be looking at the 409 again, just without all the dust. Nearly all the same features as it's bigger brother.

One piece yoke, small knob with "backwards" threads.

This one also needs to be turned to the left to advance the blade. It's something you can get used to, but it is weird at first.

407 once again stamped on the underside of the frog. Strangely, it is upside down as compared to how the 409 is stamped. I wonder why?

A good, robust, functional design. Having used this plane, I can say it takes shavings and performs well.

Ribbit.

Now, how about the Sargent made Fulton? What do you think this will look like?

Same picture again?

I've reversed the order of how we'll look at this one to make it easier for you to scroll between the two to see the differences.

The guts of this plane look awfully close to the same as the VBM 407. The frog looks very, VERY similar. It wouldn't surprise me if the frog was cast in the exact same form.

This one just looks newer.

It looks the same to me, just perhaps done a bit faster. The only significant difference in the frog is the knob is big on this one, and made of stainless steel. Also, the threads are left-handed resulting in advancing the blade achieved by turning the knob to the right. In addition, the yoke is two separate pieces. No idea what the advantage of that is. It probably was easier to manufacture.

Two piece yoke and stainless knob.

The big difference in the bed casting is the center isn't raised, and the paint is left on. I suspect leaving the center of the frog unsupported makes it easier for the frog to feel firmly seated, as there are only two bearing surfaces rather than three to align. We'll have to see how this performs. There could be room for super-tuning here.

Paint.

By the way, this plane hasn't always looked so shiny and new:

Here is the 3708 BL before rehab.

Finally, the Fulton 3708 BB made by Millers Falls:

I've only noticed this on Millers Falls planes.

Like most Millers Falls planes, the maker and number of the plane is engraved on the side. I like this about Millers falls planes, it leaves no questions.

The frog on this plane once again has a lot of bearing surface to support the blade, but the design is obviously different.

What is going on down by the mouth?

The design of this frog mechanism is far superior, in my mind. We'll have to see how it works in practice, but the clever mechanism ensures square alignment of the frog is maintained, and moves the load of the bearing surface down close to the mouth, where it can ensure stability of the cutting surface.

It's a good theory in my mind, we'll have to wait to see if it works as I think it will.

By the way, if you haven't noticed, I got a new pair of Crocs in the mail and am using the wrapper to protect my dining table.

The frog's casting looks like a little more care was taken in it's manufacturing. Like the BL, this one has a two piece yoke and a stainless large knob that turns right to advance the blade.

"2." Not sure what that means. Maybe because the Stanley equivalent is a #2? I doubt it.

There was one more detail in this casting which made me smile. Look at the part that supports the front knob:

Solid front knob.

When I tried to take off the front knob, I first twisted on the knob itself as sometimes this will loosen a front knob so a screwdriver isn't needed. This knob was rock-solid and wouldn't budge. Once I got it off, I realized that these little teeth in the casting were holding the knob in place. This is an awesome feature in my mind. I hate when I am planing and the front knob moves by unscrewing. This feature eliminates that problem.

I don't know about you, but what I am seeing is making me think the Millers Falls designed Fulton 3708 BB might be the best of the bunch. I am seeing enough little details that are in there not to be noticed, but with a function that this plane is setting itself up to be a great little user.

In my mind, the Sargent 409 works so well that it will be tough to beat in performance, so we will have to see during the test coming up in Part IV.

Before that, though, we need to look at blades, chipbreakers and levercaps in the upcoming Part III of this series.

Stay tuned...

Fingers In the Till - Sterling Tool Works Precision Protractor

I will admit this up front - this post is more of a new tool review rather than a grabbing of a random tool in my chest, but I thought it would be good for this series of posts anyway.

A couple of weeks ago I ordered a batch of tools from Sterling Tool Works, and as an afterthought, I threw in the precision protractor.

Nice and simple.

In short, I was astounded at how well made and useful this dead-simple design is for woodwork.  I never knew before that I couldn't live without it!

In long, here are the details:

The first thing I noticed about it is this isn't one of those flimsy 99 cent protractors you can get at the Borg.  It is hard to see in photos, but this protractor is made of some substantial steel.  Nice and hefty for it's small size.  That alone speaks quality to me.

The turn bolt is comfortable and cinches down tight, even though it is a bit small for my fingers.  It doesn't get in the way of anything, though.

The metal is brushed, so there is no glare.  At least with the lighting in my shop.  The numbers are all deeply engraved, dark in color and easy to see.

The best part about this tool is it's simplicity.  There is no learning curve.  I dare you to pull it out of it's plastic sleeve and screw up a measurement.

The ruler moves in and out so it can be made longer or shorter depending on your needs.  The first thing I did with it was measure a moulding plane I recently made to ensure the angle of the bed was exactly the way I thought.

It was.

That tells me that I was getting accurate results with my INCRA protractor, but it is a bit fiddly to use and takes me a while to ensure I am getting an accurate measurement.  Also, it is just one size, so if it isn't appropriate for what you are doing, tough luck.

This Sterling Tool Works protractor is adjustable for size. It locks in a specific angle or measures an already established angle simply and intuitively.  It is worth the price tag just for that.

My guess is woodworkers will be put off of by spending the $50 this tool is priced at because of the photos.  There are some nice ones on the website, but you really can't see the quality of this tool in them.  Trust me, it is not slim, flimsy and light like you think it is.

For full disclosure, I did notice that I was cranking down really hard on the adjuster to keep the arm locked tight.  In the above photo I was using this tool to ensure my stopped, tapered chamfer was staying at 45 degrees.  Expecting a lever to stay put like this might be a bit much to ask.  It will stay put for measuring and marking an angle, but hard use over and over presents opportunities to knock the ruler a degree or two out of whack.  You could always use this protractor to set the angle on your t-bevel if you need to keep that angle locked in solid.

For my two cents, the price is right there in the sweet spot of affordable for a tool you will find indispensable forever.

While you are at this site, take advantage of the fact that some other toolmakers' goods are available.  You can save on shipping!  I bought things made from Hamilton Woodworks and Texas Heritage Wood Works.  All went in the same box.

Happy birthday to me!

In conclusion:  trust me, you need one.

Fingers In the Till - European Scrub Plane

One of my favorite tools ever, this flea market find has turned into a workhorse in my shop.

Here it is, I used it to bevel the underside of this chair.

This is one ugly tool, but it works like crazy.  There is a lot of instructions on the internet for turning a jack plane or a smoothing plane into a roughing plane for thicknessing, but I find that this dedicated plane has earned the real estate it occupies in my tool chest.

What makes this particular one special, is that it is old, well used, and well modified by some thrifty German carpenter in it's previous life.  There is a couple of big cracks in the stock of this plane held together with various bolts and screws.  It feels awesome in my hands.

It's a fairly narrow plane, I suspect the blade is between 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" in width.  If you build one, go with a narrow blade. 

When I got it, I ground it at a pretty dramatic radius.

Most roughing plane instructions on the internet recommend something like an 8" radius for rounding a plane like this.  I decided to go bold and ground it at 3" instead.  Since it is so narrow, I can get away with this.  If you grind a 2" blade at three inches, you won't be able to set it so deep as to get a shaving wide enough to justify such a wide blade.

This plane has a crazy open mouth.  I could probably put my thumb in there.  This keeps it from jamming with the rough chips you'll be getting. 

Of course there will be tear out, but this is for course work.

Wow!

As you can see, the blade in this plane isn't something precision made from Starrett.  My guess is it is from a leaf spring, spray painted red for good luck.

Before grinding, you can see how un-flat the steel is.

I sharpened this up to 8000 grit on my waterstones when I got it more than two years ago, and the blade hasn't been out of the plane since.

The crazy tight radius on the blade allows this plane to thickness wood faster than any other hand tool method I have.

Here's how I've found that this tool works best when thicknessing:  I put the board on my bench with the grain oriented right to left.  I traverse which means going across the the grain, like the above photo.  I then plane diagonally, with the grain.  I go from the near right hand side to the far left hand side.  After this, I go diagonally, 90 degrees from the first diagonal.  However, I am careful not to go from the near left to the far right, I must go from the far right to the near left.  To do this I turn the board 180 degrees in the vice and take the plane left-handed.  This allows me to continue going diagonally with the grain, instead of against it.  If I do the diagonal the wrong way, the tear out goes DEEP. 

If that explanation doesn't make sense, you'll find out what I mean when you try it.

For some reason Stanley scrub planes (like the #40) are getting expensive in the US.  There doesn't really seem to be a cheap alternative.  Lucky for me, I live in Europe, and these things are everywhere.  I wonder why?

French Moulding Plane

French eBay strikes again!

French plane.

I picked up a pretty little moulding plane from French eBay the other day.  The construction of this plane is a bit different than the English tradition, and I thought it might be worth a five Euro bid to find out if it might be worth building one.

As is typical with purchases from eBay, you never quite know what you are going to get.  I tried to bid on one that didn't look too ratty.  Not too much rust or too many worm holes.

This one has a worn out sole.  The bit on an English plane that normally would be boxed is practically worn off in the front.

The sharp part of the profile on this plane's sole is worn away.

There are some interesting tidbits of French plane construction that one can learn from this plane.  First of all, it doesn't appear that the planemakers were too overly concerned about perfectly straight grain on their planes.  Looking at other planes on eBay, this plane is typical with a big swirly bit of grain right down by the sole.

Nasty tear out on the sole itself!

Here is another view of the sole from the rear.  The back of the plane took a bit less wear than the front.

One can see the profile on the sole from the back.

Here is another view of the swirling grain near the sole.

The wedge is a bit different in shape.  It actually looks practical and easy to make.

Wedge.

I was pleased to see the tapered iron was made by the Peugeot firm.  This should be good steel.  I look forward to sharpening it up.

Peugeot blade.

Here you can see the blade is tapered.  Curiously, it is full width the whole way back.

The big reason I bought this plane, is I wanted to see how the mortise for the blade was constructed.  I was right when I suspected that it was sawn out and another strip of wood was attached to the side.

This construction method for the mortise looks simpler to construct.

Indeed, looking at the end of the plane, you can clearly see where the strip was attached.

The side strip that is glued on is one wall of the blade's mortise.

Another view of the sole including the inserted blade.

Here is a view of the blade cavity with the blade removed.

I think the side escapement looks funny, but I imagine it is practical and works.  It looks like the end of the wedge fits seamlessly with the escapement.

The plane's escapement.

I couldn't see any spring lines on the end of the plane, however the plane's fence was canted a bit.  Could this be the angle that the plane should be sprung?

The fence looks sprung.

Here is a close-up of the maker's mark. It looks like, "8 VRAI CORMIER GARANTI" with a P. G. in the center of the star.

Maker's mark.

The over all length was 22 cm with a height of 7 cm for the body. (8 5/8" x 2 3/4")

Fairly short.

I think there is no question looking at this style of plane that the English style is superior.  However, construction of this plane looks far simpler than the English one.  One can not say that the French made inferior furniture using tools such as this.  Perhaps they viewed these tools with the thought of them being a bit more disposable than the English did.

In any case, here is a construction method of a plane that could perhaps be relevant today in the view of a more entry-level plane, or perhaps a tool one would buy for a single use.

I look forward to trying this plane out to see if it will still cut a moulding.  If so, it might be worth rehabbing and fixing the sole.

In any case, I might try and build one using principles seen on this plane to see if I can come up with a plane that is easy to build.