Greg's chairs are already finished! |
Me? Well, I've been plugging along. I finally finished up the legs today. I think these ones turned out better than any I have done to date. I did my best to be as precise as possible. It could make a difference. I think that chair legs do not have to be perfect, but have to look octagonal. These aren't perfect, but they are much more uniform than any octagonal legs I have made previously.
Eight legs looking for some chairs. |
Here is how I made the legs octagonal:
First, I made an octagonizer according to Greg's instructions on his blog, except instead of a scratch pin I made a hole for a pencil. This gauge is nearly the same as the one Olav the Great gave me a couple years back. Overall I would say Greg's tool is easier to make than it looks, and perhaps easier to make than Olav's. However, Olav's works better with a pencil. You can see in the photo below how short the pencil had to be.
My interpretation of Greg's octagon tool. |
I've also started using a jointer and a smoother since I have them in my tool chest. I could have done these all with the BU jack, but I wanted to try out the Course, Medium, Fine technique.
This was great! I was able to leave all my planes at one setting. Also, with the jointer and smoother both having cap irons, I was able to eliminate all tear out, even on the spots with crazy grain and over knots.
Course |
Medium (Yes, the #8 is overkill) |
Fine |
Here is how the shape of the octagon came out on the last leg that I did.
Not perfect, but pretty good. |
My point was to make chairs out of home center materials, and the home center here doesn't really have an economical alternative to these. They started life as 2x2 eight footer construction lumber. I cut them up the best I could to mitigate weak spots with knots. Most of the visible knots are at a glancing angle to the chair leg, so I think those knots are not that structurally damaging. Only one has a knot that goes straight through. I tried to put that knot in a part of the leg that was thick, hoping the extra mass there will survive the Tony test.
In a way, these legs are an experiment to see if they will hold up over time. It's not best practice, but there are plenty of chairs in the world with legs made of MDF, so I predict they will sit. At least for a while.
Next up is to make the seats from 18mm laminated pine. You know, the stuff wrapped in plastic!
There's still plenty of time left in June for you to build your chair. Let me know what you are working on!
Excellent progress! Glad to see chairs shaping up and putting pressure on the rest of us...
ReplyDeleteYou could be the first to finish two projects in June.
DeleteExcept Greg beat you to it.
Great looking octagonal legs.
ReplyDeleteI like the idea of using three planes instead of changing the setting for every operation.
Brgds
Jonas
I think doing it all with one plane is a great way to get to know your plane, and if you don't have multiple planes it is good to know you can get it done, but since I have them...
DeleteGlad to see you gave the octagonizer a go. Yep, works best with a pin. I use it to mark the distances and then use a pencil and finger gauge to lay down the lines.
ReplyDeleteYour legs look great! Shoot for perfect and accept any variances. The variances are all but undetectable in the finished product. I have a Don Weber video and he simply knock the corner off.
I think my pitiful offerings win me a participation ribbon at best. They turned out OK and sit decently. The form is a bit jarring for a lot of folks though. Somebody on Instagram pointed out that they looked a lot like a Sligo chair. Yea...had to Google it too, but he was right. So maybe I'm not totally out in left field with these.
Thanks, Greg!
DeleteOlav made one of the octagon I Zero for me a couple years back, and his uses dowels for stops. Perfect for use with a pencil. But, it still isn't perfect, and should be used along with your eyeballs.
I hope my chairs turn out half as nice as yours, but I'm worried.
Looking good with half a month to go. Love the feel of pine after a good smoothing plane.
ReplyDeleteHey Jeff!
DeleteThanks. Me, too. And the smell. I love the smell.
Enjoying watching this build! I tried a construction grade lumber stool last month (SPF). Octagon seat with octagon legs. worked well and held my weight (210lbs). I put the small taper end to the seat/mortises. Ended up with cylindrical 3/4" through tennons wedged in place. Then my nephew got a hold of it and thoroughly 'nephewed' it. Either rocking or jumping resulted in 2 sheared tennons. This was my first attempt and my construction was definitely not flawless, but I'm curious to see how you handle the tennons when you get there and what size you use (mine was likely quite undersized). Thank you for sharing your build!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment. I usually try to make legs with the straightest grain possible. I'm a bit worried about these ones with a couple of them having knots.
DeleteI'll orient these legs the same as yours, but I'll use tapered tenons. That should add a bit of strength.
Agreed. Straightest grain possible is best. As long as the knots are not just below the seat (as the leg exits the mortise), you should still be ok. the most stress on the leg should occur from the longest lever (leg on floor to bottom of chair) and it would also take the most bending force ('moment force' if I remember my university classes correctly) where the fixed point in the chair bottom exits into the flexible or moveable member of the chair leg. Either way, you'll have a chair at the end of this and maybe some questions answered for the rest of us about building with construction grade lumber. Thanks again!
DeleteThanks. I feel a lot better about these legs now. I purposely put the knots that could weaken the structure of the chair leg as far away from the joint as possible.
DeleteCheers!