Squirrel Handle and Henning Norgaard Inspired Table Part II

You'll remember in my last post I indulged in a bit of ADD Woodworking, I started to rehandle a mortise chisel shortly after starting a major project.

The good news is I finished it.

My handle next to a Gramercy Ray Isles mortise chisel.

You'll remember I left off with this photo:

Started.

Unfortunately I didn't think to take many pictures of the hard parts of this project. The tang of the chisel was rectangular in shape, which was a bigger challenge than previous chisels I've done with square tangs. I found a planemaker's edge float was helpful.

The other part of this project that was important was layout. I started with an oversize block of beech. Once the chisel was mostly seated, I drew new layout marks on the blank consisting of centerlines based on the blade of the chisel, since it was expectedly off-center now.

With that done, I marked the shape of the handle from the center points. This handle is essentially square and tapers in both directions from small at the bolster to bigger at the end.

Once that was marked, I used my Dick Saw (a Ryoba Japanese pull saw from Dictum's line of tools labeled "Dick") to cut on my lines for the rough shape of the handle.

From there it was just a matter of cleaning everything up. I had the best luck with my block plane, although I did chew up the blade pretty well by the time it was done. I suppose I knicked the metal bolster a time or two, and a scraper.

Once the general shape felt good in my hand, I did no more measuring. I figured I could have chased my tail all night getting everything perfect. In the end, the tool should work, even if it isn't millimeter perfect.

Cleaning up the ratty bits with my block plane...

...and my card scraper.

Having smoothed the square bits, I did the chamfers, continuing the pattern from the bolster. In the end it looks more square than octagonal.

I might re-do the chamfers on the end to make them much bigger.

I even decided I should practice with my maker's stamp.

On the other hand, it doesn't look so bad.

I'm pleased, and now have a 3/4" pigsticker that can be used.

Whether or not I ever have a project that needs it is another story.

I also will need to sharpen it someday, as it is as blunt as could possibly be.

It is quite comfortable to hold.

As far as the table goes, I bought some ash (Fraxinus excelsior) for the base. This is beautiful, straight grained stuff. To make the table extra special, I will cut the pieces out so the grain runs at a 45 degree angle, making each face look the same rather than have quarter sawn on one face and flat sawn on the other.

To do this requires a bit of creative sawing. This is actually quite easy to do with a hand saw.

Here is one finished stick. 15 more and I'll be able to start the joinery!

A fellow Munich woodworker let me borrow him and his shop long enough to run my oak tops through his jointer/planer. That saved me quite a bit of time.

A preview of the top of the table.

The table top will be about 28 inches square.

Resting.

I will have a few days before I get any more shop time, so I will let these oak pieces acclimate a few days before I do anything else with them. Clamping them up will hopefully prevent them from turning into potato chips.

Next time I will glue up the panel, plane the bottom flat and install some cross battens to keep the panel flat over time.